Harold Bawlzangya Racing

Yamaha Gas G29 Build

This is what I got for $500.  Had to drive 1.5 hours north to get it.

yamahagas-3

yamahagas-5

The engine was in a couple of boxes:

yamahagas-7

yamahagas-6

yamahagas-1

yamahagas-4

The following day I realized I forgot to get the gas tank.  So another 3 hour round trip to get this:

gas-tank

With the plastics being completely beat-up on the gas cart, it was a no-brainer picking this electric cart up for $80.  This cart was only 45 minutes away.

yamahaelectric-4

It only had 1 front wheel and nothing on the back, so it was a little difficult getting it in the garage:

yamahaelectric-6

Luckily the plastics were in as good as shape as the CL ad, so here is the pile of parts I’m keeping:

yamahaelectric-9

Running total:  $500 gas cart + $80 electric cart = $580.


The guy who sold me the gas cart said all the parts for the 357 engine were in several boxes plus he had purchased brand new Yamaha parts to rebuild it.

357-engine-8

Sure enough everything was there to make a complete engine:

357-engine-3

I put this on eBay and CL.  An engine rebuilder wound up buying this from my CL ad for $350.

Running total:  $580-$350 = $230


Someone hit something with the front end of this cart.  It appears that the impact was focused on the cross-member. The frame rails don’t have any damage to them.

frontenddamage

The passenger wheel was worn more than the driver side and visually seemed to have too much positive camber.  There is a very good chance that this tire was already heavily worn before every being put on this cart.  But I was concerned that maybe this had something to do with the impact to the front end.

swappingfrontends-2

Everything looked OK, but as soon as I stood on the front end and jumped up an down, I quickly noticed that one of the passenger front shock was frozen in place – it wouldn’t compress or rebound.

swappingfrontends-3

So the electric cart comes to the rescue again.  Electric suspension is now on the gas cart.

swappingfrontends-5

With the front end in better shape, I just want to take some time to make sure the front end wasn’t damaged from that impact.  It has been a while since I’ve had a need to use this digital angle gauge, but it came in handy for this.

Zero’d it out on a cross member:

frontendalignment-3

Both sides are essentially at the same angles:

frontendalignment-2

frontendalignment-1

Just for piece of mind, I checked the angles of several other parts of the frame and things seem to be about as straight as I can measure.

With a “newer” front tire on the passenger side, things looked normal.

frontendalignmentafter

Time to move forward . . .


The floor pan from the gas cart had a nice crack where the gas/brake pedal mount:

gasplasticpandamage

I wasn’t optimistic that I could plastic weld that, so once again, the electric cart to the rescue.  With the electric pan in the electric frame, it is time to cut-out the center section to make room for the gas engine:

floorpanconversion-2

floorpanconversion-3

I left the cut generous so I could go back later and clean it up:

floorpanconversion-4

floorpanconversion-6

So here is the modified electric pan in the gas frame:

floorpanconversion-1


Finally getting around to doing some actual work on the gas cart today.  I wanted to fix this cross-member that was damaged:

fixfrontend-3

I will be using the cross-member from the electric frame:

fixfrontend-7

Damaged piece out:

fixfrontend-4

Removed all traces of the welds:

fixfrontend-6

Cut the good cross-member out of the electric frame rails and got a nice tight fit to the gas frame:

fixfrontend-1

My son welded it in:

fixfrontend-2

Scrap metal now:

fixfrontend-8


Time to throw away some of the parts I won’t be using.  The gas body is way to beat up to be worth saving:

garbage-4

garbage-1

Turned into this:

garbage-3

Center part of the electric floor pan:

floorpanconversion-5

Team clutches and engine shrouds:

garbage-2


I couldn’t find anything locally and the few that were on eBay were too expensive.  So I drove over to Oxford, Alabama to get a Club Car rear end for $550.

clubcarrearend-2

While I am there I notice they have another rear end that isn’t quite locked up, but there was a lot of resistance when trying to spin the input shaft.  I only brought enough cash with me for the one rear end.  The next day I text the guy and asked if they would be interested in selling the “broken” rear end.  I’m asked to make an offer, so I suggest $200.  He counters with $300 and I turn it down.  The next day I get a text from the owner saying he will take the $200.  So another drive to Oxford and I have this:

clubcarrearend

Running total:  $230 + $550 (Club Car rear end) + $200 (“broken” Club Car rear end) = $980


I won’t be using the governor in the Club Car rear end, so I will be removing those parts.  This is what I’ll be using:

clubcarrearendmod1-9

Need to remove the governor pin first:

clubcarrearendmod1-4

clubcarrearendmod1-12

clubcarrearendmod1-13

clubcarrearendmod1-14

Governor arm next:

clubcarrearendmod1-10

clubcarrearendmod1-10

Red Loctite will keep that from ever moving:

clubcarrearendmod1-11

Discarded parts:

clubcarrearendmod1-7

Running total:  $980 + $20 for tap, loctite and brass fittings = $1,000


First step on getting the Club Car rear end into the Yamaha is to get rid of the mounts:

removemotormounts-2

removemotormounts-3

removemotormounts-4

removemotormounts-5

removemotormounts-1

Using the Yamaha rear end, I built a quick jig to help align the Club Car rear end.  I used scraps and locked the engine cradle in place:

ccrearending29-5

ccrearending29-10

Mark the position of the left and right side studs:

ccrearending29-3

ccrearending29-4

Those marks will be used to align the Club Car studs with the rear end in place.  The Club Car axle aligned based on the reference marks from the Yamaha rear end:

ccrearending29-6

ccrearending29-7

On to the new mounts.  A 2″ hole saw was the perfect size:

ccrearending29-8

ccrearending29-9

After triple checking that the Club Car rear end is aligned, welded the new mounts in place:

ccrearending29-11

ccrearending29-13

ccrearending29-12

Finally the Club Car rear end is sitting in the Yamaha G29:

ccrearending29-15

ccrearending29-14

ccrearending29-16

ccrearending29-1

Running total: $1,000  + $28 for 3/16 steel plate = $1,028


OEM parts to fix-up both rear ends:

clubcarrearendparts

6:1 gears arrived:

81gears-2

hsgearinstall-3

hsgearinstall-5

Gear on:

hsgearinstall-8

First bearing:

hsgearinstall-10

Second bearing:

hsgearinstall-11

Done with this part:

hsgearinstall-12

Axle tubes are ready for painting:

axletubes-4

First coat on:

axletubes-1

Second coat and done:

axletubes2-3

And the spare Club Car rear end finally sold on Craigslist yesterday for $400:

club-car-rear-end-4

club-car-rear-end-3

club-car-rear-end-2

club-car-rear-end-1

Running total:  $1,028 + $258 (Club Car rear end rebuild parts for 2 rear ends) + $325 (6:1 gears) – $400 (sold extra Club Car rear end)  + $22 (POR15 Top Coat)= $1,233


I need to remove the governor from the Lifan engine:

Removing this:

And this:

I used a plug for the top of the engine:

I couldn’t use the same type of plug on the outside of the cover.  I didn’t feel comfortable using the plug from the inside.  So I used a brass bolt.  I tapped the cover and used red loctight:

That probably would have been good enough, but just to over-kill it, I damaged the threads:

Then I had to go one step further and I put a piece of stainless wire through it:

Making sure to blue loctight the cover bolts.

Worked on replacing the rear axle bearings. I reused the bushings but polished them up:

Pressing the bearing on first:

Then the bushing:

All ready to be installed:

My order from Vegas Carts came in yesterday with the HD clutch and the belt:

 

Running total:  $1,233 – $300 (sold Yamaha rear end) + $310 (VC order for driven clutch and belt) = $1,243


Now that I’ve got the HD driven clutch, I can see where I’m at.  This is what I get for fabbing and welding things up without all the parts to do a proper test fit.  The regular size driven clutch probably would have fit fine, but this larger HD clutch is hitting the out bracket:

A little work with the grinder and now I see it hits the inner bracket:

Some more grinder work and all is good:

Now to see how it fits in the cart.  With the gas engine cradle in place:

Bolt in the rear end and things fit well.  I won’t be able to remove the driven clutch with the rear end in the cart, but I don’t plan on having to do that very often anyway.  Probably once a year for routine maintenance.

Getting a rough idea of how things will fit with the engine in place:

The gas engine cradle isn’t going to work without some big modifications:

I’m going to make a new engine mount set-up using the electric G29 (that $80 cart just keeps getting to be a better deal all the time) cradle.  This set-up will have forward/back adjustment built into it, so no need to slot the engine mount plate.

Starting with this:

Ready for painting:

Then the bottom part of the clamps:

Ready for painting:

 

I used aircraft stripper to get the powder coating off the electric cradle.  In some areas the powder coat bubbled off within minutes, other spots I had to apply the stripper 4+ times and let it set for 20 minutes each time.  Not sure why there was so much variance.


 

So with the paint drying, time to work on how to mount the starter.  As usual, I like to overbuild things.  This is what I put together:

Installed:

Sandblasted for painting:


The moment of truth, putting it all into the frame for the first time:

Plenty of room around the starter/generator:

Plenty of room in front to get to the valves and carb:

 


Finally a rolling chassis:

 


Getting around to the exhaust.  Using 1″ black pipe.  That thickness should keep things quiet and last a while.

There was no room in the back of the cart for the muffler so it had to go up front.  This seemed like it was going to be the best location.

 


So with the engine/rear end in the cart and the exhaust hooked up, I started the engine for the first time.  I originally just had the muffler hooked up.  It wasn’t too loud, but definitely louder than stock.  I then put on the tail pipe and was amazed at the difference that made.  There was now more noise coming from the motor itself than the exhaust.

But slowly increasing the RPM’s showed a flaw in my engine mount system.  The rubber bushings were allowing the engine to rotate back toward the rear end, thereby changing the distance between the clutches.  So I’m scrapping that system and doing a direct mount.  I will do my best to replicate the set-up that is used in the ’97+ Club Cars.

So here are the problematic bushings:

I also decided to replace the steel mount with 1/2″ aluminum.  Cutting the aluminum to the correct size on the table saw:

I also decided to scrap the steel pieces I made and replace them with stainless.  I couldn’t bring myself to buy a new welding tank or empty the nearly full 75/25 mix I had in my current tank.  I found a company that sells flux core stainless wire.  It was definitely difficult to weld with and the welds are ugly, but it was the cheaper option.  Everything is now stainless:

I couldn’t replicate the Club Car design, but I copied the concept.  The engine is bolted solid to the aluminum mount.  The main stainless bracket is bolted to the engine in 3 areas.  Then the rear end is bolted to the main stainless bracket.  So now the engine, cradle and rear end are all tied to each other.

1/2″ aluminum plate, 3/8″ stainless steel plate, SS flux mig wire: $135


Finally finishing up the exhaust.  My “quick” disconnect connection:

The entire system in place:

Muffler supports in stainless:

I went back and over-killed the support bracket:

Also put a little radius on the inlet side of the tail pipe:

 


Exhaust 2.0 – details of why and how I changed the location of the muffler HERE.

There was so little room in the back end of the cart that this was the only place for the muffler:

All painted up:

Walker muffler $30, black pipe $25, elbows $25


More disk brake pictures HERE.

I didn’t like the how much this clevis pin moved around in the brake pedal:

So I threaded it:

Blue loc-tight:

And just for the final over-kill, I slotted the nut and added a cotter pin:

All hooked up:

Disc brake kit:  $333


With the exception of headlights, the cart is all wired up.  All connections have been soldered/heatshrunk.

Key switch and USB charger/voltmeter – $30


The old tank wasn’t going to fit, so this 4 gallon tank will have to do.

Since this was the same pump I have on the Club Car I was hoping to avoid the return line.  But a few minutes of the engine running made it obvious I would have to install one.

Ran out of hose clamps.

Down near the battery I have a brass barb that connects the two different sized fuel lines.

Tank, pickup tube and cap $75

 


Aussie Speed valve cover installed:

Vented with a PVC valve:

Connected to the intake like on the Club Cars:

I kept having trouble with the valve cover gaskets leaking.  I could see how they could move around as I positioned the cover.  So I made one that would stay in place out of Viton:

 


 

 


 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

Advertisements