Harold Bawlzangya Racing

Posts tagged “KDX KIPS

Cleaning the KIPS

I had some of this cleaner that I was looking to get rid of so I thought I would try it on the KIPS parts.  Started soaking just this part:

CleaningKIPS (3)

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Then added some more and let them sit overnight.  It got off a lot of the gunk,

CleaningKIPS

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but it didn’t get all of the heavy carbon build-up:

CleaningKIPS (4)

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CleaningKIPS (5)

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CleaningKIPS (8)

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CleaningKIPS (9)

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I went to a fine wire wheel and had to work to get this stuff off:

CleaningKIPS (10)

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Soaked the rest of the KIPS in more of the combustion cleaner and they came out pretty clean:

CleaningKIPS (6)

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CleaningKIPS (7)

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In time we’ll see how well the carbon does/doesn’t stick to the more polished surfaces.  If I was going to polish this correctly, I would have had to have sanded out more of the metal to get rid of the imperfections for a nice surface.  But I didn’t want to remove metal and screw with the tolerances of the parts.  So all of the polishing was done with a buffing wheel.  Not a mirror finish, but it should be a bit “slipperier” than it was before:

PolishedKIPS (1)

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PolishedKIPS (2)

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A final clean-up in acetone and all ready to install:

CleaningKIPS (1)

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Timing the KDX KIPS

Timing or aligning the KDX KIPS system is really pretty simple.  Grooves, indentations and dimples make the process straightforward.  I’m referring to parts as left or right as if you are looking at the front, or exhaust port side of the cylinder.

Orientation

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This is opposite of how you would normally refer to things as if you are sitting on the bike, but I can’t see how or why you would assemble the KIPS with the back-side of the cylinder facing you.

It is best to keep the left and right sub-valves grouped together during dis-assembly and cleaning:

subvalves

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If you happen to get the parts mixed up, you can identify the left sub-valve components as indicated in the below picture:

leftsubvalve-detail

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Assemble and time the right side sub-valve.

The right sub-valve has two teeth with indentations as seen in the below picture:

rightsubvalve (1)

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The groove on the exhaust rod goes in between those two teeth.  This is what you are shooting for when the pieces are in the cylinder head:

rightsubvalve (2)

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This next part is where people usually make the process more complicated and waste a lot of time.  Typically a person will slide the exhaust rod in and see where they are at with the alignment.  If they are really lucky, things will align the first time.  Since that normally doesn’t happen, a person will then slide the exhaust rod out a little, rotate the exhaust sub-valve, then insert the exhaust rod and see if they got the alignment correct.  Then they repeat that process multiple times.

The easy way is to drop the sub-valve into the cylinder head.  Then slide the exhaust rod in the cylinder head all the way.  Then pull up on the sub-valve (it won’t pull all the way out) and rotate the sub-valve until the indented teeth “sandwich” the groove on the exhaust rod:

subvalveinstall (1)

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Once aligned, drop the sub-valve back down into the cylinder head:

subvalveinstall (2)

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Right side aligned:

rightsubvalve-aligned

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Assemble and sync the left side sub-valve:

Same process as the right side.  The left sub-valve has the same indention on two teeth:

leftsubvavle (2)

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Those teeth “sandwich” a groove on the exhaust rod.  Again, this is what you are shooting for when the parts are in the cylinder head:

leftsubvavle (1)

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Drop in the left sub-valve and insert the exhaust rod all the way in.  Pull up the valve and rotate it until you get the proper alignment and then drop it in.  The left side should look like this:

leftsubvavle-aligned

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Assemble and sync the main shaft

Install all the pieces of the main valve:

mainvlalve

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Just like all the other components, the main shaft has a marking that is used to align it properly.  This “dot” is small, but it is there:

main shaft timing (1)

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On the left exhaust rod there is another groove used for timing:

Main shaft timing 3

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Slide the main shaft through the cylinder head.  Rotate the main shaft so that “dot” should align with the grove on the left exhaust rod like this:

Main shaft timing

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Moving over the to right side, the right exhaust rod has another groove for timing:

Main shaft timing 4

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Not sure what this gear is called, but align the dot on the tooth to the groove of the exhaust rod like this:

Main shaft timing 5

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 Then just torque all bolts and nuts to the correct specification as outlined in the manual and finish assembling all the other pieces of the cylinder head:

KIPS done

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 Finally, if the white paint has come off the gears, there should be a little line on the shaft to be used for alignment:

Day 7 (6)

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