Harold Bawlzangya Racing

KDX 220 build

EXP testing

So this is how I set-up the EXP a few days ago.  It has been too long since I rode my own bike with the EXP (485 days to be exact), so I can’t confidently say I remember how the medium wedge/red spring combo felt.  But from my questionable memory, I can’t say that the heavy wedge/silver spring combination felt much different.

But one new thing I did was put the EXP on the opposite side of the clutch pack.  I thought I would try this out since the KDX clutch expands opposite most other clutches.  So this is how I positioned it a few days ago:

220RekluseEXPTesting (5)

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I thought I would try to move it back to where I normally have the EXP positioned (2nd from the top) to see if it made any difference.  Before laying it over, I put the transmission in 6th gear:

220RekluseEXPTesting (2)

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Made sure I cleared the spokes:

220RekluseEXPTesting (3)

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220RekluseEXPTesting (4)

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I flipped the position of the EXP and put it back in:

220RekluseEXPTesting (1)

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I only lost a few drops of ATF in the process.  Without touching the cable tension, it slipped less.  Not a dramatic difference, but it was better.  I’m sure there is some physics thing happening that I don’t understand, but it looks like I will keep it there.

I adjusted the cable tension some more and got even less slipping.  I am assuming the the change in EXP position allowed me to fine tune the cable tension to get even better performance.   The engine is a little muddy right off idle, making it difficult tell if the clutch is slipping or if the engine is sputtering.  That is how I’m going to leave it until I can get a couple of smaller pilot jets.


220 break in

It has been 485 days since I last rode my hybrid.  I was getting eager to start-up the new engine and didn’t want to take any more time putting on plastics.  So with all the essential parts bolted in place, I’m ready to break in the 220.

220ReadyForBreakIn

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Before I put the carb on, I checked to see what jets I had in there the last time it was used on the 200.  155 main, 40 pilot and I set the clip 4 down on the DEK needle.  I knew the needle and main would be rich, but I didn’t want to take any chances during break in.

220Jets

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Fresh gas, Yamalube mixed at 32:1 and the engine started on the 4th kick.  After letting it warm up until the radiators got hot, I got on the bike and took an easy ride for about 30 seconds just to make sure everything sounded good.  Then I rode it as hard as I could up and down the side yard for about 10 minutes.  The engine ran very well, but got a little smokey near WOT.  I figured that was a combination of the rich jetting and the excess premix I dumped into the bottom end during assembly.

I parked the bike and noticed a small drip of anti-freeze.  I traced that back to a hose clamp that I didn’t have tightened down enough.  While I was at it, I pulled the slide and moved the clip up one position to lean it out a little.

220JetNeedleChange

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I started the bike up again to check to make sure I took care of the anti-freeze leak.  While the engine was warming back up, I checked to see if the 40 pilot jet was correct.  Turns out a 40 is too rich as I was about 2 1/4 turns on the air screw to get the highest idle.  A 38 pilot is on the shopping list now.

I did a couple of laps around the yard and the change to the needle definitely made a positive change.

I figured any more riding today would be pressing my luck with the neighbors.  Tomorrow will be plastics and messing around with the Rekluse.

220DoneBreakIn

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Starting to look like a bike again

So this is how my bike has been sitting since November 2014.

220EningeInHybrid (3)

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I only had a 1/2 hour free today, but it has been bugging me to have the 220 engine sitting on the workbench all ready to go.  After wiping off the layer of sawdust that had accumulated over that time, I finally have the 220 engine bolted and torqued in place:

220EningeInHybrid (1)

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220EningeInHybrid (4)

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Wow, that took a while

I started this 220 build on May 2nd, 2015.  I started with these:

CasesStripped (1)

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KDX200Cylinder (1)

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The 220 parts spent most of the next 10 months in boxes and on shelves while I worked on a basement remodel.  Finally in early December 2015 I got back on track.  I finally finished on March 5, 2016:

220BuildDone (1)

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Every gasket, bearing and seal is new.  Well except the water pump seal.  I forgot to order that one and didn’t want to delay things any longer.  Since the seal wasn’t leaking last time I rode the bike, I’ll take the chance of running it as-is and getting a new seal next time I place an order.  Freshly plated cylinder, new Wiseco 220 piston and a few custom modifications.  All those details are HERE.


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First of several Rekluse EXP modifications

ClutchMods (1)

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Finally getting to test some EXP changes

I’ve had these heavy wedges and silver springs for over a year now, but I’m going to finally going to get them installed and tested.  Prior to this, it was medium wedges and 6 red springs.

EXPHeavyWedgesSilverSprings (1)

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EXPHeavyWedgesSilverSprings (2)

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EXPHeavyWedgesSilverSprings (3)

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Letting the oil flow

As I’m putting the 220 together, this was a good time to modify the clutch hub I have been using.  One of the used YZ clutches I bought a while ago came with a Hinson hub.  That hub had a lot of big oil holes in it:

YZHub

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The stock hub has 4 small holes:

HubOilHolesBefore

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So without going too crazy, I went from 4 small holes to 16 larger ones:

HubOilsHolesAfter

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Soda blasting – again

You’d think I’d be smart and do all of this at once.

moresodablasting (8)

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After on left, before on right:

moresodablasting (6)

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moresodablasting (5)

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Rinsed off and ready for new seals and gaskets:

moresodablasting (3)

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Crank seal comparison

Aftermarket seal on the left, OEM on the right:

CrankSealComparison (2)

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That is more like it

220CylinderHead (1)

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Looks like I won’t be needing to hand-cut any gaskets for a little while now:

220TopEndGaskets

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Dammit!

I’ve never had problems with the complete Moose gasket/seal kits, but this clearly isn’t the 220 head gasket.

Dammit

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HBR-CSRS #392 installed

More pictures HERE:

 

220CrankSeals (5)

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220CrankSeals (8)

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220CrankSeals (4)

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220CrankSeals (9)

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220CrankSeals (11)

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220CrankSeals (2)

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GovernorClearance

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Cleaning the KIPS

I had some of this cleaner that I was looking to get rid of so I thought I would try it on the KIPS parts.  Started soaking just this part:

CleaningKIPS (3)

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Then added some more and let them sit overnight.  It got off a lot of the gunk,

CleaningKIPS

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but it didn’t get all of the heavy carbon build-up:

CleaningKIPS (4)

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CleaningKIPS (5)

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CleaningKIPS (8)

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CleaningKIPS (9)

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I went to a fine wire wheel and had to work to get this stuff off:

CleaningKIPS (10)

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Soaked the rest of the KIPS in more of the combustion cleaner and they came out pretty clean:

CleaningKIPS (6)

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CleaningKIPS (7)

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In time we’ll see how well the carbon does/doesn’t stick to the more polished surfaces.  If I was going to polish this correctly, I would have had to have sanded out more of the metal to get rid of the imperfections for a nice surface.  But I didn’t want to remove metal and screw with the tolerances of the parts.  So all of the polishing was done with a buffing wheel.  Not a mirror finish, but it should be a bit “slipperier” than it was before:

PolishedKIPS (1)

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PolishedKIPS (2)

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A final clean-up in acetone and all ready to install:

CleaningKIPS (1)

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220 KIPS bore clean-up

It is not uncommon for some excess plating to buildup inside the bore of the KIPS system when the cylinder gets replated.  The left side isn’t a problem, but the right side that uses the o-ring on the exhaust rod can cause binding.  Removing the o-ring is not the proper fix.

I kept the old o-ring on and tested the cylinder to see how much resistance was on the rod.  I didn’t want to tear up the new o-ring.

220borecleanup (2)

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Not too bad, but it could be better.  Featuring the HBR Power Valve Bore Resurfacer, or HBR-PVBR for short.  Made from the highest quality materials, machined to the tightest of tolerances:

220borecleanup (3)

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I started with some 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper:

220borecleanup (4)

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220borecleanup (6)

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220borecleanup (5)

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220borecleanup (1)

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I moved the HBR-PVBR in and out of the bore several times while running the drill.  I checked the exhaust rod for proper operation.  I finished the process with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper.   The rod moves smoothly with no hang-ups or unnecessary resistance.

 


Got the bottom end of the 220 put together

More pictures and details HERE.

casecleaning (1)

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220BottomEnd4

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220BottomEnd5

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220BottomEnd6

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200BottomEnd10

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220BottomEnd12

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220BottomEnd14

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220BottomEnd21

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220BottomEnd20

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220BottomEnd25

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220BottomEnd27

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220BottomEnd29

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220BottomEnd35

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220BottomEnd36

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220BottomEnd37

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220BottomEnd38

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220BottomEnd40

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220BottomEnd41

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220BottomEnd42

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Soda blasting cases

With all the modifications done to the cases, it is time to clean them up.   The Harbor Freight soda blaster works surprising well.

Soda blasting (2)

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Soda blasting (8)

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Soda blasting (6)

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Soda blasting (5)

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Soda blasting (4)

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Done with the soda,

Soda blasting (7)

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Soaking in hot, Dawn filled water to get rid of all the baking soda:

Soda blasting (1)

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Well I thought soaking them for a while and then using the handheld sink sprayer would have dissolved/removed all the baking soda.  But after speed drying the cases in the oven, I was wrong.  There was still baking soda in some of the blind bolt holes.

casecleaning (2)

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casecleaning (3)

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So back to the utility sink. This time I bought a tooth pick and poked it around in all the bolt holes while spraying it with the handheld sprayer.  Speed drying in the oven again and finally the cases are clean.

casecleaning (1)

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Final truing of the HBR crank

I’ve had this crank I rebuilt a while ago stored away waiting for a bottom end to put in.  I thought I’d check the run-out one last time before I installed it.  It was well under specs, but I thought I’d push my luck and see if I could get it better.

I put the indicators as far out as possible to get the best reading.

finalcranktrue (5)

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Kawasaki didn’t make it very easy on the clutch side.  Between the keyway slot and the locator pin hole for the water pump gear, there isn’t much real estate to work with:

finalcranktrue (6)

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The flywheel side didn’t have as many obstacles, but with the taper, any later movement would throw the reading off:

finalcranktrue (7)

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After just a handful of calculated whacks, I had the indicator on the flywheel side just barely moving and the clutch side was just under .001″ out.

I didn’t set-up the indicators exactly like outlined in the manual, but this orientation should highlight the run-out a little better than what is shown in the manual.

finalcranktrue (1)

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Both indicators barely moved.  Even with the limitations of my set-up and indicators, this should be a long lasting and smooth running crank.


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Not too shabby

IntakeAfterPlating

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HBR – Crank Seal Retainer System (patent pending) Model 392

Logic told me that the crank seals weren’t going to blow out of the cases with the retaining lip removed.  But I had the time, material and paranoia to try to add some peace of mind to this modification.  Born is the HBR-CSRS model 392.

For the clutch side, I used some acrylic to mock-up what the retainer would look like:

plasticprototype

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Originally I was going to use 1/2″ aluminum and machine away most of it for the necessary clearances.  I wouldn’t have to bend anything and the differences between where the retainer bolted to the cases and where it rested against the seal would be easy enough to work out.

halfinchprototype

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But I took a quick stab at making one out of thinner aluminum and seeing if I could get the bends correct.  I think it was more luck than anything but I got this worked out:

FinalVersion

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I added this drain channel to the backside.  This isn’t so much for oil to drain out but rather to give the sediment from the worn clutch friction material a place to drain away. It just seems like a bad idea to have that abrasive material collecting near the crank seal.

ClutchSideRetainer-Channel

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Other than removing the factory cast retaining lips,

RetainerClutchSideBefore (1)

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I put this notch in the alignment dowel part of the case:

RetainerClutchSideBefore (2)

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The retainer fits into this notch,

RetainerClutchSideInstalled (1)

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And then bolts into place on top of the existing oil receiver:

RetainerClutchSideInstalled (2)

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Inside view:

RetainerClutchBackside

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Flywheel side was a little easier. Using a spare, I removed the electronics and started with this:

FlywheelSealRetainer (2)

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Put it on the scanner and cut out a template:

RetainerFlywheelSideTemplate

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RetainerFlywheelSideTraceOut (2)

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RetainerFlywheelSideTraceOut (1)

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After some work I had this:

FlywheelRetainer (2)

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FlywheelRetainer (1)

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Ready to bolt on:

RetainerFlywheelSideInstalled (3)

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RetainerFlywheelSideInstalled (4)

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With the retaining lip removed:

RetainerFlywheelSideInstalled (2)

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Installed:

RetainerFlywheelSideInstalled (5)

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RetainerFlywheelSideInstalled (1)

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Now I’ve got the peace of mind that the seals won’t push out, yet with the removal of a few bolts I can still service them.

 

 


What are those?

 

FinalVersion

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FlywheelRetainer (1)

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FlywheelRetainer (2)

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Splitting the Rekluse EXP test engine

With the last EXP conversion shipped out, I thought I’d take a few minutes and split the engine I used to test fit the conversions on.   I think I used this on 15 conversions:

TestEngineSplit (2)

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So here we go, getting the flywheel off:

TestEngineSplit (3)

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TestEngineSplit (4)

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TestEngineSplit (5)

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Before you start trying to split the cases, double-check that you have removed 11 case bolts:

TestEngineSplit (6)

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As usual, a nice “pop” that makes you think you just broke something:

TestEngineSplit (7)

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One I get the “pop” and initial separation at the crank side of the cases, I start tapping the rear of the cases with a rubber mallet to get them separated.

TestEngineSplit (8)

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Separating and tapping a little at a time making sure gap stays consistent between the front and rear of the cases:

TestEngineSplit (9)

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Just about there:

TestEngineSplit (10)

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TestEngineSplit (11)

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Got lucky on this one that both crank bearings stayed in the cases.  Usually one stays on the crank.

TestEngineSplit (12)

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Cylinder arrived today

My 220 cylinder came back from PowerSeal today.

I shipped it off on December 30th (Wednesday).

It was delivered on January 2nd (Saturday).

Received an email from them on January 4th (Monday) letting me know they received the cylinder – nice touch.  Emailed stated that turnaround time was currently 9 days.

Received a call on January 11th (Monday) that the cylinder was done.  $207 shipped back to me.

Cylinder was delivered on January 13th (Wednesday).

They send it back in the same box with the same packing you shipped it in.

PowerSealRePlate (4)

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PowerSealRePlate (5)

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PowerSealRePlate (8)

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PowerSealRePlate (7)

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PowerSealRePlate (6)

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PowerSealRePlate (1)

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PowerSealRePlate (3)

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PowerSealRePlate (2)

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Case modification – replace crank seals without splitting the cases

Better way HERE.


 

I’ve been researching this for a while and finally took the plunge.  Yamaha and Honda allow you to replace the crank seals without splitting the cases.  But these lips that Kawasaki manufactured into the cases prevents that.

Partial lip on flywheel side:

Cases - crank seal removal (10)

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Cases - crank seal removal (4)

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Full lip on clutch side:

Cases - crank seal removal (2)

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Cases - crank seal removal (3)

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Honda doesn’t use a retainer on either crank seal:

http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-235/round-three-92-01-cr250-engine-build-46010/

 

And Yamaha only uses a retainer on the clutch side (~5:20).   At about 5:46 of this video, he just pushes the crank seal in with his fingers.  I can’t tell from any of the 3 RMATV videos, but the stator could serve as a seal retainer.  But I did notice that the seals Yamaha uses are different than what the KDX uses.  No way are you installing the KDX seals with just your fingers.

 

The more I’ve thought about it, I’m thinking those “lips” are more of stops that put the crank seal in the correct location.  If there was concern about the seals moving and popping out, I would think there would be an equal concern with the seals moving inwards and blocking off the oil passage.  I’ve yet to see a seal that wasn’t seated against the lip, so I highly doubt that they move.

So here we go . . .

Flywheel side removed:

Cases - crank seal removal (12)

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Clutch side removed:

Cases - crank seal removal (15)

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Neat little drill bit

I bought this drill bit a while ago from eBay.  It was made in Poland and didn’t cost that much.  I wasn’t sure how it would work out and I finally have a chance to try it out on my 220 build.

The first part is a 15mm guide and the cutting part of the bit is 17mm.

drillbiit (2)

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drillbiit (1)

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HybridCasesShavings

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Worked very well:

HybridCasesSecondCut

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HybridCasesDone2

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