I cut down a plastic coffee container so it would fit under the engine cradle. I knew the patio under the deck was sloped, so I backed the cart up under the deck. I removed the cap from the dranz-it set the coffee container under it. I did some other things and came back with the jack and lifted the rear of the cart 3-5 inches. No more oil came out, so I now have a good spot to to all my future oil changes without any additional equipment.
A few ounces of the good stuff and I’m back in business.
I’ve finally got this chinese copy PZ30 carb dialed in. Got my best 0-30 mph run yet.
I messed around with different main jets and needle clip settings. It looks like the 120 main and 3rd clip from the top needle jet is the way to go. Now I will take the micro drill best set and find out what the 120 main is equivalent to. That way I can reproduce it.
I was wanting to use a light bar instead of the headlights designed for the G29 body. There was a space between the bumper and front cowl that was just to narrow for the light bar I bought. The easiest solution was to lower the bumper. This is what the bumper brackets look like:
For each bracket, only half is used. I made sure I cut and welded the correct half. Here is the difference:
I cut-off the half that isn’t used and then painted them up:
I made some brackets out of stainless steel and here is the light bar installed on the bumper:
And on the cart:
I needed gas for the cart, so I went for a 5 mile drive to fill-up and test out the new carb.
The Keihin generator carb was a big improvement over the clone generator carb. And this slide PZ30 carb is a nice improvement over the Keihin. Idle and mid-range throttle response is better than with the Keihin. No surprise there since the generator carbs weren’t designed to operate over a wide range of throttle openings. At 20 mph (speed limit on the paths) the engine is operating at 2900 RPM’s. I will do a MPG check once I get everything finalized with the new carb.
In town, the two biggest complaints of the gas golf carts are noise and smell. I’ve done some scientific smell testing at different times by driving back and forth through some of the tunnels here. With this new carb, I think there is a big improvement in part-throttle jetting. I had to go through the same tunnel 3 times before I could really smell any of the exhaust. And even then it was pretty subtle. The spark plug confirms that the engine is running well at part throttle openings. The picture shows the porcelain a little darker than what it really is. Most of the time on this plug was between idle and 3,000 RPM.
Full throttle is another story. I am going to pull the carb and go up one size on the main jet. My 0-30 time wasn’t bad today.
It was a couple of seconds off from my best time with the Keihin carb, but there are two factors that are different. My best time was done back in November when it was cooler (it was near 90 degrees when I did today’s run) and I was using a different belt that was wider back then. That wider belt sat higher out of the driven clutch giving me better off the line performance.
Back in November I dropped seconds off my 0-30 times by adjusting the main jet richer and richer each run. By the time I was at my best times, I was definitely running an overly rich jetting. I will go up one size on the main and see what happens.
The go-kart throttle cable had the right type of end fitting, but the ID was too large. The stock Yamaha cable is on top and the pin would essentially slide through the ID opening of the go-kart cable. For the first time in a long while, I didn’t need to go to the store to pick-up something to solve a problem. I had a bronze bushing in a spare parts container that would work perfectly.
I had to drill out the go-kart fitting one size to get the bronze bushing to fit.
It is obviously too long, so after a little grinding it is finally all put together.
I have spent a good bit of time dialing in the jetting and am now committed to using this carb.
I cleaned up my adapter plates and this is what I ended up with.
This half goes on first:
Then the other half:
Then finally the carb:
I am going to work on a different type of air box set-up and intake in a little bit.
I wound up using a go-kart throttle cable. I had to cut it down and put a new stop on the end. I did this before with my dirt bike carbs. Drilling a hole in a piece of aluminum keeps the silver solder from sticking a forms a pretty decent stop.
This is what the stop looks like in the slide.
I couldn’t wait to complete my adapter, so as soon as it was usable, I got this PZ30 carb bolted on.
The only way I could even get it running at anything close to resembling an idle speed was to have the choke fully closed. And yes, that is a piece of wire that I’m using as a throttle cable.
Using the smallest micro drill I have, I opened up the pilot jet.
I could now get it closer to idle speed without the choke. It was still faster than I would like and the slide is just about fully closed. I need to go back in and open it up some more.
I got things hooked up enough to where I could take it for a quick drive.
Once I get into the range of the needle, the carb works great. This carb is much more responsive than the Keihin generator style carb. The needle is currently in the 2nd richest clip setting. I think WOT is a little lean, but I want to get everything else cleaned up first. If WOT is lean, getting the pilot dialed in will help with that.