I had been using front only disc brakes ever since I got this cart running. The biggest problem with the G29 is the front end is so light that the front brakes lock up too easily, thereby reducing their effectiveness. Putting drum brakes on the rear end wasn’t an easy task. With the Club Car rear end, bolting up drum brakes is simple, activating them is the hard part. The G29 came with an internal rear brake and uses a single brake cable. So that was the challenge – how to make a cart set-up for a single cable work dual cable brakes. The easiest solution seemed to be switching from cable to hydraulic activation.
I was going to use the switch to drum rear brakes as an opportunity to ditch the 10″ rims and go back to stock 8″ rims by removing the front disk brakes.
I bought a couple of backing plates on eBay. I noticed that once of them had locating dimples on the back (to better align the back plate with the axle) and the other was flat on the back.
So I made up this little tool to make the dimples on the back.
Here is one of the dimples I made compared to the flat one:
The next step was removing the guide plate where the cable brakes slide.
After a lot of test fitting, here are the welded up backing plates for the hydraulic wheel cylinders.
Final test fitting:
All bolted up:
While I was removing the Jake’s disc brakes, I took the opportunity to install grease fittings on the factory spindles like the Jake’s set-up.
I also had to redo the speed/odometer sensor set-up to work with the “factory” configuration.
With the Jake’s disc brakes, I had the reservoir under the seat near the forward/reverse selector. That wasn’t going to work with the new system so I moved the reservoir under the cup holder where it is still accessible by removing one screw.
One line connection:
T-fitting bolted to the rear end:
Wheel cylinder connections:
Finally the set-up to the brake pedal:
I was working with scrap SS at this point so this was the best I could come up with to join the pedal to the master cylinder. I have found that SS bends easier than the same thickness of steel, so I went overkill in beefing this up.
I completed this conversion in early Fall but forget how many miles I started with. I know I hadn’t turned the mileage over, so this set-up has at least 462 miles on it.
I painted the rims black and am considering some mini moon caps to cover the lugs.
I finally got around to doing a little tuning on the 780 clutch. My belt wasn’t going up all the way and from looking at pictures of other clutches, this was pretty common.
The picture doesn’t do it justice, but there is a good size gap between the belt and the sheaves. That gap represents wasted movement of the clutch that doesn’t translate into any movement of the cart.
I took the cover off the clutch and pressed the spider down until I had just a slight gap between belt and sheaves.
I cut down and aluminum ring from some scrap so that it fit properly under the clip.
Now the belt goes all the way to the top.
A while back I did away with the engine set to idle at a stop. When I was putting everything together, I took out some of the slack in the belt. Between the tighter belt and the belt riding higher in the drive clutch, there is a noticeable difference in the speed of the cart. My tach broke so I will have to wait and get a new speed vs. RPM to compare to the original set-up.
It was nice having the PZ30 carb on the cart with so many more aspects to control with the jetting. But the performance was starting to act a little erratic after 800 miles. With the cheap Chinese manufacturing, I didn’t have high expectations on longevity.
Before going back to the Keihin that came on the GX390, I thought I would try the 24mm 3 circuit carb from VC.
Getting the epoxied, broken off low speed screw out wasnt that bad with some silver solder and a spare PZ30 jet. Ugly, but it worked.
The flux made a mess though. It came of easily with some carb cleaner.
The low speed screw on this 24mm carb is a different size than the Keihin/clone carbs. Since I had the solder out, I used another jet from the PZ30 and made a “new” screw from the original. The PZ30 jet provided a nice shoulder for the spring.
All cleaned up with the adjustable main jet.
On the cart:
It fired right up and with just a little time spent adjusting the jetting, it is running pretty well.
One last ride before the rains from Michael start hitting us.
It is the first week of October, the leaves are falling and it is getting dark at 7:30 pm, but it is still 90 degrees in the afternoon.
With the warm weather and no rain, I have had no problems driving the cart around.
My Chinese Vegas Carts 780 clutch had these weights and yellow springs (who knows what tension or strength they really were).
When I got my genuine Comet 780, I didn’t even try the 106 gram weights with the yellow springs it came with. I assumed it was going to be similar to the CVC clutch.
I first tried the green springs with the 106 g weights and really liked the low engagement and how much more quiet things were when going 20 mph or less due to the engine turning less RPM. But the little 390 just didn’t have the grunt for that combination. It definitely struggled on some of the larger hills. On flat ground it was awesome though.
Then I tried the green springs with 91 gram weights. That was a much better set-up for the 390. I thought I was going to keep that combination until I had another person on the cart and noticed that performance suffered on hills again. It wasn’t a big difference, but noticeable. I considered keeping that set-up though because most of the time it is just me on the cart. But the weather is still warm and thought I would try the yellow/106 set-up that came with the Comet.
This is what the 91 gram weights looked like after about 4 hours of use. The color on the weights has faded.
Engaging the green springs on the weights was easy, the stiffer yellow springs takes some effort.
Back to the original set-up.
I went out for a night drive last night with the yellow/106 set-up and I am definitely keeping it. Acceleration and hill climbing is so much better than the other two combinations I tried. If I had a larger engine, the 106/green set-up would have worked out really well for the type of driving I do.
Got the new fuel pump from Amazon yesterday. It is in a Briggs & Stratton box but made by Mikuni. Not crazy about the housing being plastic, but I’ll see how long it lasts. I will get a rebuild kit for the aluminum one so I have it as a back-up.
The fuel filters are full of gas again and I can see gas flowing into the top one near the tank. All good again.
And the vent filter is doing its job. After two rides and 22 miles, the carburetor bowl is free of debris.
Some of that debris clogged up the carb. With a combination of carb clearner, guitar strings and compressed air, I got it all cleaned out.
The plug is looking pretty good. Despite getting near the end of September, it is still humid and 90-92 for afternoon highs. Hopefully sometime soon I will need to work on winter jetting.