I cut down a plastic coffee container so it would fit under the engine cradle. I knew the patio under the deck was sloped, so I backed the cart up under the deck. I removed the cap from the dranz-it set the coffee container under it. I did some other things and came back with the jack and lifted the rear of the cart 3-5 inches. No more oil came out, so I now have a good spot to to all my future oil changes without any additional equipment.
A few ounces of the good stuff and I’m back in business.
The next day I poured off most of the oil in the container. I then added gas to help thin out the oil so I could pour everything through a coffee filter. This is what was left:
I saw a few pieces of aluminum. I ran a magnet across the debris and then wiped the magnet off in a napkin. This is what came off the magnet:
Next time I am going to do the same procedure but instead of running everything through a coffee filter, I am going to let the gas evaporate in a white container. The white container will let me see what came out and it will allow me to put a magnet underneath and pull all the iron pieces off to the side.
I’ve finally got this chinese copy PZ30 carb dialed in. Got my best 0-30 mph run yet.
I messed around with different main jets and needle clip settings. It looks like the 120 main and 3rd clip from the top needle jet is the way to go. Now I will take the micro drill best set and find out what the 120 main is equivalent to. That way I can reproduce it.
I was wanting to use a light bar instead of the headlights designed for the G29 body. There was a space between the bumper and front cowl that was just to narrow for the light bar I bought. The easiest solution was to lower the bumper. This is what the bumper brackets look like:
For each bracket, only half is used. I made sure I cut and welded the correct half. Here is the difference:
I cut-off the half that isn’t used and then painted them up:
I made some brackets out of stainless steel and here is the light bar installed on the bumper:
And on the cart:
I needed gas for the cart, so I went for a 5 mile drive to fill-up and test out the new carb.
The Keihin generator carb was a big improvement over the clone generator carb. And this slide PZ30 carb is a nice improvement over the Keihin. Idle and mid-range throttle response is better than with the Keihin. No surprise there since the generator carbs weren’t designed to operate over a wide range of throttle openings. At 20 mph (speed limit on the paths) the engine is operating at 2900 RPM’s. I will do a MPG check once I get everything finalized with the new carb.
In town, the two biggest complaints of the gas golf carts are noise and smell. I’ve done some scientific smell testing at different times by driving back and forth through some of the tunnels here. With this new carb, I think there is a big improvement in part-throttle jetting. I had to go through the same tunnel 3 times before I could really smell any of the exhaust. And even then it was pretty subtle. The spark plug confirms that the engine is running well at part throttle openings. The picture shows the porcelain a little darker than what it really is. Most of the time on this plug was between idle and 3,000 RPM.
Full throttle is another story. I am going to pull the carb and go up one size on the main jet. My 0-30 time wasn’t bad today.
It was a couple of seconds off from my best time with the Keihin carb, but there are two factors that are different. My best time was done back in November when it was cooler (it was near 90 degrees when I did today’s run) and I was using a different belt that was wider back then. That wider belt sat higher out of the driven clutch giving me better off the line performance.
Back in November I dropped seconds off my 0-30 times by adjusting the main jet richer and richer each run. By the time I was at my best times, I was definitely running an overly rich jetting. I will go up one size on the main and see what happens.
The go-kart throttle cable had the right type of end fitting, but the ID was too large. The stock Yamaha cable is on top and the pin would essentially slide through the ID opening of the go-kart cable. For the first time in a long while, I didn’t need to go to the store to pick-up something to solve a problem. I had a bronze bushing in a spare parts container that would work perfectly.
I had to drill out the go-kart fitting one size to get the bronze bushing to fit.
It is obviously too long, so after a little grinding it is finally all put together.
I have spent a good bit of time dialing in the jetting and am now committed to using this carb.
I cleaned up my adapter plates and this is what I ended up with.
This half goes on first:
Then the other half:
Then finally the carb:
I am going to work on a different type of air box set-up and intake in a little bit.
I wound up using a go-kart throttle cable. I had to cut it down and put a new stop on the end. I did this before with my dirt bike carbs. Drilling a hole in a piece of aluminum keeps the silver solder from sticking a forms a pretty decent stop.
This is what the stop looks like in the slide.
I couldn’t wait to complete my adapter, so as soon as it was usable, I got this PZ30 carb bolted on.
The only way I could even get it running at anything close to resembling an idle speed was to have the choke fully closed. And yes, that is a piece of wire that I’m using as a throttle cable.
Using the smallest micro drill I have, I opened up the pilot jet.
I could now get it closer to idle speed without the choke. It was still faster than I would like and the slide is just about fully closed. I need to go back in and open it up some more.
I got things hooked up enough to where I could take it for a quick drive.
Once I get into the range of the needle, the carb works great. This carb is much more responsive than the Keihin generator style carb. The needle is currently in the 2nd richest clip setting. I think WOT is a little lean, but I want to get everything else cleaned up first. If WOT is lean, getting the pilot dialed in will help with that.
I started with four 8×12 sheets of 3/16″ stainless steel sheets and then 8 feet of 3/16″ 2″ square stainless tubing. After finishing everything related to the new cradle, relocating the muffler, etc, this is what is left of it all.
I had to run a bypass on the fuel pump supply line, otherwise the the carb would overflow.
When I built the SS cradle, I designed it so that the engine would sit lower. With my original set-up, the top of the S/G was closer to the bottom of the seat than I would have liked.
Now that the engine is sitting lower in the cradle, I was able to put together an idea I had a while ago. I found a small moped gas tank that I spliced into the return line from the fuel pump supply and the tank. I mounted it as high up as I could place it. Now the carb is being gravity fed and when the fuel hits a certain level in the small tank, it overflows back into the big tank.
The bypass was working fine, so why go through the extra effort? The cool part of this is that if my fuel pump ever fails, I can still drive home. All I have to do is pressurize the tank and fuel will fill up the small reserve tank. I have to remove the gas cap (it is vented) and hold my hand over the opening. Then if I pull the return line from the reserve tank and blow into it, the pressure forces gas into the reserve tank. Not sure how many miles I can go with that amount of gas before I have to do it all over again, but it beats being stuck.
This is what it looks like with the body installed.
I have put 50-60 miles on this set-up and it works perfectly.
No way was I going to be able to change the oil from the front and the rear is even tighter.
That will do it.
Engine adjustments are now just a one-handed job. This is the front and the rear is similar, but tied into the S/G bracket.
I made my own isolator mounts and the turned out well. The problem was that the 60 duro urethane was just too stiff.
I bought the VC isolators (left) and they did an OK job, but still were on the firm side. I went to McMaster Carr and picked up some softer mounts (right). The softer mounts did an outstanding job of keeping the vibrations away from the rest of the cart.
The next issue was dealing with engine moving back toward the rear end during acceleration. Even with the stiffer VC mounts the engine moved back. And with the softer mounts it was even worse. I thought about doing the torque strap/cable that Yamaha uses but found a use for the VC isolater mount afterall.
This is what the cradle and engine mount plate look like:
The engine doesn’t move back while keeping the vibrations to the rest of the cart to a minimum.
The cross-member that I built into my cradle was exactly in the way of my old exhaust. So I needed to make a new mounting bracket and I did away with the short 90 degree pieces.
Mounting plate installed:
Engine installed without the exhaust:
I left this oversize as I still need to finalize how I will mount the engine plate to the engine cradle.
I am going to be making custom isolation mounts out of this urethane:
I bought some 3/16″ stainless plate and 2″ square tubing back in November to make a custom engine cradle/swingarm.
I was going to build this over the winter but never got around to it. I finally started this project this week. The weather was all over the place – day 1 & 2 I was wearing shorts and a t-shirt and the AC was on. Day 3 & 4 it was jeans and a jacket with the heat back on. On the last day – day 5 – it was back to shorts and a t-shirt.
After triple checking my numbers, I started with these cuts:
Then on to the proper positioning of the cross-member:
One of the key items I needed to incorporate into this was an “anti-wrap” feature or bracing to keep the rear end from wanting to twist under acceleration. This is the final product:
Last test fitting before putting it in the cart:
In and everything looks and lines up well.
It looks like today was the last nice day for a while – upper 60’s with sun. Tomorrow it rains and then highs only in the 50’s with some additional rain. I drove about 17 miles today. There is nothing like a freshly paved path:
Something seems to be missing here:
I finally got around to getting the shifter set-up. The first problem was the arm on the rear end was too long and hit the body.
That was easy enough to cut down. I was able to use the bracket on the rear end, I just had to make some adjustments on it.
Then I had to add an extension on to the Yamaha shifter assembly to get the cable to work properly. I also took that as an opportunity to add a little bracket so I could mount the disc brake reservoir. That was easier than welding a bracket to the frame.
I’m using the electric body, so I’ll need to make a cover plate later on.
I can finally install this cover. I just need to get more body plugs.
For the work, it was a warm day and I cut off most of the golf bag holder arms and then spray painted the cut ends.
I then spent some time aligning the front end. I now have about 1/16″ toe in and the cart drives straight with the steering wheel perfectly level.
Now for the play. This looks like a great place to do some 0-30mph times.
And of course there is an app for that. I thought I had the jetting dialed in pretty well, but I’ve learned that jetting a 4 cycle is nothing like a 2 stroke dirt bike. The first couple of runs all gave similar results as this:
I don’t know what prompted me to mess with the main jet, but I opened it up a little and my times dropped into the 10’s. I kept opening up the main jet a little at a time and got my best run:
I kept things under 20mph for mos of the drive and got 38 MPG.
I had to goto Walmart, Home Depot and then the Club Car shop. I stopped off and finally used one of the cup holders the way it was meant to be used:
After crappy weekend weather, today was a great day – sunny and in the mid 60’s. I spent part of the drive to and from Walmart dialing in the Keihin carb. That involved a lot of standing still and stomping on the gas pedal. I think idle circuit modification has really helped the transition from idle to WOT throttle. Even with the WOT runs, I still managed to get 32.7 MPG.
Finally have a seatback on the cart now.
I’ve made some modifications to the Keihin carb that came on the Honda. The Keihin is the same as the clone carbs, the fuel line needs to come in from the top. And it is a smaller diameter than the other fuel lines I’m using. This is how I the fuel line had been run to the carb:
With this 1/16 npt elbow that is pointed down:
With using the Club Car airbox, I don’t need the choke. So I’ll plug that hole with a 1/8 npt fitting:
I sanded down the excess that was protruding into the carb:
Installing the $10 eBay adjustable main jet:
While I had the carb all apart, I enlarged the idle jet and opened up one of the 4 holes (furthest one back) that are part of the idle circuit. Carb installed with 1/4 fuel line running directly to the carb:
I’ll be throwing away the smaller fuel line now.