Harold Bawlzangya Racing

Harold Bawlzangya Racing

If I only knew what I was doing . . .

Latest

Hybrid air box for sale

KDX – KX hybrid air box – $80 plus Priority shipping to lower 48

This air box will fit 2003, 2004-2005 KX frames.  The KDX air boot has been mated to the airbox.  Comes with a Twin Air and Moose airfilter.  Also comes with the PC Racing Pro Seal gasket.  Details of this air box set-up can be seen HERE.

HybridAirBox (5)  HybridAirBox (4)

HybridAirBox (3)  HybridAirBox (2)

HybridAirBox (7)  HybridAirBox (1)

 

EXP testing

So this is how I set-up the EXP a few days ago.  It has been too long since I rode my own bike with the EXP (485 days to be exact), so I can’t confidently say I remember how the medium wedge/red spring combo felt.  But from my questionable memory, I can’t say that the heavy wedge/silver spring combination felt much different.

But one new thing I did was put the EXP on the opposite side of the clutch pack.  I thought I would try this out since the KDX clutch expands opposite most other clutches.  So this is how I positioned it a few days ago:

220RekluseEXPTesting (5)

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I thought I would try to move it back to where I normally have the EXP positioned (2nd from the top) to see if it made any difference.  Before laying it over, I put the transmission in 6th gear:

220RekluseEXPTesting (2)

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Made sure I cleared the spokes:

220RekluseEXPTesting (3)

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220RekluseEXPTesting (4)

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I flipped the position of the EXP and put it back in:

220RekluseEXPTesting (1)

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I only lost a few drops of ATF in the process.  Without touching the cable tension, it slipped less.  Not a dramatic difference, but it was better.  I’m sure there is some physics thing happening that I don’t understand, but it looks like I will keep it there.

I adjusted the cable tension some more and got even less slipping.  I am assuming the the change in EXP position allowed me to fine tune the cable tension to get even better performance.   The engine is a little muddy right off idle, making it difficult tell if the clutch is slipping or if the engine is sputtering.  That is how I’m going to leave it until I can get a couple of smaller pilot jets.

220 break in

It has been 485 days since I last rode my hybrid.  I was getting eager to start-up the new engine and didn’t want to take any more time putting on plastics.  So with all the essential parts bolted in place, I’m ready to break in the 220.

220ReadyForBreakIn

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Before I put the carb on, I checked to see what jets I had in there the last time it was used on the 200.  155 main, 40 pilot and I set the clip 4 down on the DEK needle.  I knew the needle and main would be rich, but I didn’t want to take any chances during break in.

220Jets

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Fresh gas, Yamalube mixed at 32:1 and the engine started on the 4th kick.  After letting it warm up until the radiators got hot, I got on the bike and took an easy ride for about 30 seconds just to make sure everything sounded good.  Then I rode it as hard as I could up and down the side yard for about 10 minutes.  The engine ran very well, but got a little smokey near WOT.  I figured that was a combination of the rich jetting and the excess premix I dumped into the bottom end during assembly.

I parked the bike and noticed a small drip of anti-freeze.  I traced that back to a hose clamp that I didn’t have tightened down enough.  While I was at it, I pulled the slide and moved the clip up one position to lean it out a little.

220JetNeedleChange

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I started the bike up again to check to make sure I took care of the anti-freeze leak.  While the engine was warming back up, I checked to see if the 40 pilot jet was correct.  Turns out a 40 is too rich as I was about 2 1/4 turns on the air screw to get the highest idle.  A 38 pilot is on the shopping list now.

I did a couple of laps around the yard and the change to the needle definitely made a positive change.

I figured any more riding today would be pressing my luck with the neighbors.  Tomorrow will be plastics and messing around with the Rekluse.

220DoneBreakIn

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Starting to look like a bike again

So this is how my bike has been sitting since November 2014.

220EningeInHybrid (3)

 (click picture to enlarge)

I only had a 1/2 hour free today, but it has been bugging me to have the 220 engine sitting on the workbench all ready to go.  After wiping off the layer of sawdust that had accumulated over that time, I finally have the 220 engine bolted and torqued in place:

220EningeInHybrid (1)

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220EningeInHybrid (4)

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I’ve been wanting to make one of these for a while

An aluminum zero clearance insert with a couple of years supply of removable inserts.

TSinsert (1)

TSinsert (4)

 

 

 

Wow, that took a while

I started this 220 build on May 2nd, 2015.  I started with these:

CasesStripped (1)

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KDX200Cylinder (1)

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The 220 parts spent most of the next 10 months in boxes and on shelves while I worked on a basement remodel.  Finally in early December 2015 I got back on track.  I finally finished on March 5, 2016:

220BuildDone (1)

 (click picture to enlarge)

Every gasket, bearing and seal is new.  Well except the water pump seal.  I forgot to order that one and didn’t want to delay things any longer.  Since the seal wasn’t leaking last time I rode the bike, I’ll take the chance of running it as-is and getting a new seal next time I place an order.  Freshly plated cylinder, new Wiseco 220 piston and a few custom modifications.  All those details are HERE.

Just lost $.025

Using pennies to lock-up the crank and transmission so that I can torque the clutch, primary gear and flywheel nuts down:

220TightenClutchCrankFlywheelNuts (2)

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I think I can still use the penny on the left (used when tightening the clutch nut), but the other two are worthless (middle used for flywheel nut, right used for primary gear nut).

220TightenClutchCrankFlywheelNuts (1)

 (click picture to enlarge)

 

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