Harold Bawlzangya Racing

Harold Bawlzangya Racing

"That's Good!" - Jimmy Shorts

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First time out of the back yard!

Checked all the critical items to make sure I didn’t forget to tighten something down.  Still a lot of work to do, but this is the closest I have had the cart to running condition and I had to get it out on the street.  Ready to get out of the backyard:

It was a very uncomfortable drive around the neighborhood, but all went well.  I didn’t drive too hard or fast, but I was very happy that I was cruising around at 20mph at just 2000 rpm.  The fastest I got it was 30mph, I didn’t see what the RPM was at.

First time in the driveway since I brought the cart home last December.

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Viton is good stuff

I used a sheet of Viton to make some gaskets for the new valve cover.  The first one was just a washer that fits under the acorn not on top of the cover:

I had problems with the valve cover gasket leaking.  At first I was using a cheap Chinese copy of a gasket and after a few attempts I gave up on it.  I then used the gasket that came with the Lifan engine.  I had no leaking problems with the stock cover, so I thought this would take care of it.  But this one leaked as well.

So breaking on the Viton sheet again I made a new gasket.  No leaking so far:

Fuel system

With the tank installed, I needed to mount the fuel pump and then run the lines.  I used this same fuel pump on the Club Car with no problems so I was optimistic that it would work without a return line on the clone carb.  A few minutes of running proved that wrong.  Everything in place:

Aussie Speed Valve Cover

To install the Aussie Speed valve cover, I used stainless steel parts from Amazon.  Red loctite on the threaded rod and snugged it into the head.

The coupling nut was then tightened down.

Viton washer and SS washer.

Finally the SS acorn nut.

The VC adapter didn’t come with a large enought ID fitting.  It is a little tough to see in this picture, but there is a raised rectangular area that is just a little wider than the threaded hole.

I cut down that raised part to get a little more room to make a larger hole.

Got very, very close to the edge.

Fitting installed.

Excess removed.

Grommet and PCV valve installed.

All plumbed up:

 

Got the most out of this tire

Not too many more miles before this tire looked like this one.

Tires from Walmart

$25 each shipped to the house:

Isolator block modification

I was going to use this isolator block that already had a nipple installed.

The problem is that nipple represents the 3rd different size nipple on the cart (fuel pump and carb are the other two).  To try to stick with just two, I went to all the local auto parts and hardware stores looking for a different solution.  All of the fittings I could find had threaded bases that were so large it would leave very little plastic left on the isolator.   Thin plastic and the pipe taper threads would surely result in cracked plastic.

So I thought I would make my own fitting.  I started with this dual ended barbed fitting:

I first tried to thread one end as is.  The largest OD part of the barbs threaded well, but the thinnest OD part of the barb didn’t have any threads.  I’m sure I could have used it as is, but I would really have threads cut all the way down.  I have soldered brass before, so I thought I would try filling in the low spots and try to make a more consistent diameter.

This is what I used.  It wasn’t pretty as the solder would drip, but as easy as brass cuts, the solder was even eaiser.

Some of the threads on the soldered areas aren’t perfect, but it will work well enough for this.  This is tapped with 5/8-24 threads.  These are regular threads (not pipe taper) so no concerns about splitting/cracking the plastic.  I drilled the hole in the isolator off center where I had more plastic to tap.

I put some black RTV on the threads and all set.