Harold Bawlzangya Racing

HBR - Harold Bawlzangya Racing - HBR

Too much time on my hands . . . Or not enough sleep?

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Coil delete

Never had lights and never will . . .

LightingDelete

 

DIY vblocks

I made vblocks out of some Corian countertop material.  I chose that material because I have a lot of it in the shop, it cuts with regular wood working tools (in this case a table saw with a regular wood blade) and it is super-stable against moisture or temp changes.

vblocks (2)

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vblocks (3)

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vblocks (5)

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vblocks (6)

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vblocks (1)

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To check on the accuracy of this set-up, I took these two cranks to a machine shop to get their runout measurements.  They used a Starrett dial indicator that had .0005″ increments.

The manual states runout should be .03 mm (.0012″) or less with a service limit of .08 mm (.0031″).  My indicators have .001″ increments.

Piston circlips

Not a good idea to interchange circlips between OEM(left) and the ones used in the Wiseco (right):

WisecoVsOEMCirclip

Hand cut gaskets

These were the two gaskets I wanted to replicate and the sheet of gasket material I will be using.  I used the OEM gaskets as templates:

HandCutGaskets (9)

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 Flywheel cover:

HandCutGaskets (10)

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HandCutGaskets (11)

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I have found it is easier to cut out the center first:

HandCutGaskets (12)

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HandCutGaskets (13)

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 HandCutGaskets (2)

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 Clutch cover:

HandCutGaskets (3)

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HandCutGaskets (5)

 

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 HandCutGaskets (6)

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HandCutGaskets (7)

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 HandCutGaskets (8)

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Glad that KDX doesn’t use this type of clutch

As I was working on Project KDX – Rekluse EXP, this was one of the clutches that I thought might work out.  I believe this is from a YZ250F.  You can see that the clutch hasn’t been used/abused too much, the fingers aren’t too badly worn:

Bad clutch design (2)

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But the basket is heavily worn by the springs:

Bad clutch design (1)

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BlackCote wear

It was back in January 2011 that I applied BlackCote to my frame during a winter rebuild.  I noticed that when I was rebuilding the engine that my skid plate had wore off the BlackCote.  I think I have a solution for that problem.

After some wire wheel brushing and clean-up with acetone, this is what the bottom of the frame looked like:

BlackCote Results (2)

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After:

BlackCote Results (1)

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I have been very pleased with how durable this finish is.  I haven’t found a chemical or solvent that has removed or softened it.  As as long as an aluminum plate isn’t vibrating against it, it has proven very durable.  I don’t have a frame guard on the left side of the bike due to the kick stand, so this is what the frame looks like from boot rub:

BlackCote Results (3)

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I see that POR-15 has discontinued the BlackCote and is replacing it with Top Cote.  I don’t remember aerosols being available three years ago when I bought this stuff, but I will be sure to try that and not risk screwing up my paint gun.

Rear brakes – fluid flush and new pads

newrearbrakes (10)

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newrearbrakes (12)

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newrearbrakes (4)

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newrearbrakes (5)

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Engine rebuild left overs

All the stuff that was getting thrown out from the engine rebuild:

RebuildCarnage (2)

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RebuildCarnage (3)

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Who needs a flywheel puller?  Some smart person decided that they would try to pry it off.  Problem is it didn’t work and the flywheel was still on and the case was ruined:

RebuildCarnage (4)

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RebuildCarnage (1)

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Carb cable boot – nothing like OEM

Motion Pro may make good cables, but their boots – not so much.

Motion Pro carb cable boot:

CarbBoot (2)

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The inner diameter is way too big and doesn’t “catch” on the carb cap and just slips off:

CarbBoot (4)

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OEM carb cable boot, much smaller diameter:

CarbBoot (3)

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Took some effort to get it on:

CarbBoot (1)

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