Harold Bawlzangya Racing

HBR - Harold Bawlzangya Racing - HBR

Too much time on my hands . . . Or not enough sleep?

Latest

Neat little drill bit

I bought this drill bit a while ago from eBay.  It was made in Poland and didn’t cost that much.  I wasn’t sure how it would work out and I finally have a chance to try it out on my 220 build.

The first part is a 15mm guide and the cutting part of the bit is 17mm.

drillbiit (2)

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drillbiit (1)

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HybridCasesShavings

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Worked very well:

HybridCasesSecondCut

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HybridCasesDone2

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Blind bearing removal – no puller required

You don’t need too much to get the blind bearings out of the cases.  What you are trying to do is to force a material back behind the bearing so it applies pressure to the bearing to push it out.

I was fortunate enough to have some leftover parts that I could use to get the bearings out.  You could use anything as long as it fits tightly within the inner race of the bearing.  You don’t want the material you are using to escape between the inner race and whatever you are using to force the material back behind the bearing.

BlindBearingRemovalTools

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I use plumbers putty:

PlumberPutty

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And some heavy duty packing paper.  Newspaper can work OK, but when you wet it down, it tends to disintegrate much easier than this brown packing paper.

BlindBearingRemoval-Paper (10)

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The transmission bearing:  For this one I use plumbers putty, it makes quick work of removing the bearing. Fill the bearing up:

TransmissionBlindBearing (1)

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Then hammer it in:

TransmissionBlindBearing (2)

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Keep repeating that process of adding more putty and hammering it in until the bearing starts to lift out:

TransmissionBlindBearing (3)

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TransmissionBlindBearing (8)

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TransmissionBlindBearing (9)

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TransmissionBlindBearing (12)

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TransmissionBlindBearing (13)

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TransmissionBlindBearing (15)

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TransmissionBlindBearing (16)

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TransmissionBlindBearing (17)

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Water pump bearing:  I did a little experiment here, I used a combination of the brown paper(dry) and plumbers putty.  It is a little difficult to see, but I’ve packed some of the dry brown paper down into the bearing.  This is to try to keep the plumbers putty from getting forced up through the openings in the bearings.

BlindBearingRemoval-Paper-PlumberPutty (4)

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Add some putty:

BlindBearingRemoval-Paper-PlumberPutty (5)

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Hammer it in and keep repeating:

BlindBearingRemoval-Paper-PlumberPutty (6)

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BlindBearingRemoval-Paper-PlumberPutty (7)

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BlindBearingRemoval-Paper-PlumberPutty (8)

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The leftover mess:

BlindBearingRemoval-Paper-PlumberPutty (9)

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 BlindBearingRemoval-Paper-PlumberPutty (10)

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The KIPS governor bearing:  I’m using just the wet brown packing paper on this.  Same approach as the other bearings.

BlindBearingRemoval-Paper (1)

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BlindBearingRemoval-Paper (2)

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BlindBearingRemoval-Paper (4)

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BlindBearingRemoval-Paper (6)

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BlindBearingRemoval-Paper (9)

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Got a little carried away with the case sealant

How it came from the factory:

ExcessCaseSealant (6)

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ExcessCaseSealant (7)

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The $23 KDX-EXP clutch kit

So I thought I was getting a decent deal on a Tusk clutch kit for my KDX-EXP conversion:

CRFClutchKit

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CRFClutchKit2

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The package arrives, I open it up and see that the clutch kit has been opened.  I pull out the frictions and drives and notice that two of the frictions have already been exposed to oil and one of the steel plates has some rust on it.  So much for it being a new kit.

UsedNewClutchKit

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Long story short, the buyer refunds $15.00:

Clutch Refund

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I accepted the refund since I only need 5 of the frictions.

 

3 months post-surgery

Walking 5-7 miles a day and biking almost 10 miles a day.  Still now where close to being able to get on the dirt bike though.

3monthspostsurgery

Before and After

The before:

HipBefore (1)

HipBefore (2)

The after:

HipAfter

Crank Rebuild

My first attempt at rebuilding a two stroke crank.  I’m starting with this H-series KDX crank:

CrankRebuild (3)

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A few minutes with a fresh cut-off wheel on the angle grinder:

CrankRebuild (4)

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Remember to press the crank pin from the outside-to-inside.  You don’t want to press the crank pin out so the cut portion has to pass through the crank web:

CrankRebuild (5)

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Using a Pro-X (OEM) crank rebuild kit.  $58 on Amazon:

CrankRebuild (6)

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First step installing the crank pin:

CrankRebuild (7)

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CrankRebuild (8)

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Bearing and washers on:

CrankRebuild (9)

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Because I don’t have a nice jig that ensures nearly perfect alignment like the crank builders do, I pressed the other crank web on in steps.  Once I got it started, I put in on the v-blocks and made adjustments to get the run-out below .001″.  Because the crank pin wasn’t fully seated, these adjustments took very little force. I repeated this partial press/adjustment process a total of three times.  This is what the crank looked like after the 3rd press:

CrankRebuild (10)

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Final press:

CrankRebuild (11)

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Specs on side clearance:

CrankRebuild (2)

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CrankRebuild (13)

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CrankRebuild (12)

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A quick video showing my run-out during part of the process:

 

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